Nainital and Srinagar 1910.
We took Air India 7/30 am direct flight from Kochi to Delhi and reached Delhi in 3hours. We were picked up by Jessie’s cousin from Gurgaon. After lunch, another cousin of Jessie, dropped us at St Stephens Hospital, at old Delhi at my niece’s residence. After supper, we were dropped at the Old Delhi station, to catch the 10/30 train to Kathgodam, the nearest Rail Head to Nainital. The alumni of Allahabad Agriculture Institute (Alagin International), had organized their annual meet at a fine resort, The Lake Resort at Naukuchiyatal, in Nainital District of Uttaranchal Pradesh. This is a fine resort,about 24 kms away from Nainital Town, overlooking the largest of the less crowded lakes. About 14 of us were received at the Kathgodam station, early morning and taken by minibus to the resort. After breakfast and registration, we were briefed on the 3 days programme. The resort had different kinds of accommodation, including well appointed tents. After lunch and res, we were taken to Sattals YMCA Camp site for entertainments, fine fellowship and dinner. Next day, after breakfast, we were taken to Nainital Town about 24 Kms away. After a walk through the crowded lake side, we assembled at the Nainital Boat Club for lunch. After some more boating and roaming the town, we returned to our resort. We had entertainment (mostly some fine music by members) fellowship and dinner, after which we retired to our rooms, by about 11 pm(many were enjoying themselves till 1 am). Next morning after breakfast, it was difficult task to get about 120 participants, to pose for a group photograph, before we left to our resort near the Corbett National Park, about 100 kms away. Since all Tiger Reserves were closed, by a Supreme Court order, we could not enter the Corbett National Park. We had lunch at a resort and rested since there was no place to go. We left for The Homestead, a fine resort in a 400 acre farm, about 1 hour drive by bus. The dinner, fellowship and entertainments were hosted by Mr. Puri, an Alumni from our college (3 years junior to me), in his beautiful Farm House, who owns the resort, and farm. Since we were to catch the 9/45 night train, we were provided early dinner on a separate table, personally by Mrs. Puri. Their driver was asigned to dropped us at Ramnagar station, 10 kms away. It shows the kind of bonding and care between the Alumni of the College. We enjoyed 3 days of fellowship with the old boys and their families at the Alagin International Meet at Nainital, in the comfort of fine resorts, excellent weather and fine food. The old boys from the area and their families took much trouble and care, to make arrangements to make the meet most enjoyable experience for all of us.
We were picked up from Old Delhi station early next morning by my niece. After breakfast with her husband and my sister, we were dropped at the Airport to catch the flight to Srinagar. We were picked up by the tour guide, from the airport and were dropped at the Dal lake (3x6kms) House Boat accommodation, of Athena Group. The House boats are accessed on smaller raw boats, called the Shikaras. The weather was nice and cool. The accommodation includes, dinner and breakfast. The room was large, with TV, fan, good bathroom,with hot running water. The house boat on which we stayed had 3 bedrooms,with well furnished common dining room and sitting room,with TV. The furniture, the wall panels and ceiling were all carved in Walnut wood. The boats are made with Deodar wood. All House Boats are anchored to each other and are stationary. Some are pretty large and many are interconnected through floating pathways. After lunch on the house boat, the guide took us to 3 famous Mogul Gardens in Srinagar, on the shores of Dal Lake. Cheshma Shahi was built by Shah Jahan in1632. The largest of the 3, Nishat Bagh was built in 1633 by brother of Nur Jahan. Shalimar Bagh was laid by Jahangir, for Nur Jahan, with a stream of natural water running down hill through the middle, with fountains. While in the Mogul gardens, a pretty teenaged girl with an elder woman, approached us with a request, to take a photograph with us. The elder lady took the photograph, with the young girl close to us, in our middle. We were pleasantly surprised by the informality and simplicity of people. We returned to the House Boat by evening.
Gulmarg
The next day we went by road to Gulmarg, the huge grassy cup shaped meadow, the famous Golf course and winter sports centre, at an elevation of about 8000 ft, about 60 kms away. Fir trees and majestic snow-clad peaks surround the meadow, with small ponds. There is a 2 stage cable car service, to a +11000ft peak. The cable car station is about 1.5 kms away from the car park. 100s of local people offer Pony rides, which is their only means of living, for about 8 months each year, till heavy winter snow fall. They charge Rs.100/- each way per person. We preferred to walk, though the path is littered with pony dung. The guides also pester you and charge Rs.500/-. The tourism department supports the locals, to earn a living from the tourists. The 2 stage cable car ride, gives a beautiful view of the mountains and valleys and cost Rs.800/- per person, up and down. The 2nd stage is steeper. As we were close to the top, it started snowing, the first snow in Gulmarg of the season. Because of the snow fall, we were told not to go far from the terminal. Later they asked all the tourists, to return down to the first stage station, as they would close the service, if the weather turns more unfavorable. We had our lunch at the mid station restaurant and returned back to the lower station. We had to walk back to our car, on a wet pony dung covered path, which was not a very pleasant experience. On our way back to Srinagar, we stopped at one scenic point. Deodar and Chinar are the dominant trees, on the lower slopes of the mountains. Chinar trees are protected and not allowed to be felled.
Pahalgaon
Next day we left for Pahalgam about 100 kms away from Srinagar, an important trekking base to Amaranth Cave, at the confluence of Lidder and Shesnag streams. It is a small town, with beautiful scenery and views of snow clad mountains. Pahalgaon was a shepherd’s village. Pony/ Mule ride and local taxis, are the only transport to the beautiful valleys around. Our own vehicles, are not allowed beyond the bus station.We managed with difficulty to trek to the top of a steep hill in one valley.
We traveled from Srinagar to Pahalgam, on the National highway running along river Jhelum, towards Jammu. Rice is the staple food of most Kashmiris and much paddy (local variety) is grown in valleys, using irrigation from the river or streams. It was harvest time and the straw is stored for winter, on tree branches. We saw many slightly elevated rolling fields along the Jammu road, being tilled and were told that in 3 to 4 weeks, Saffron flowers will appear above ground. The farmers will harvest it’s 3 red stamens, which will fetch them Rs.200/- per gram. The 3 yellow stamens are sold by hawkers (after coloring red) as saffron for around Rs.120/- per gram, to unsuspecting tourists. Saffron is plant with small underground bulbs, like lily. All along the road sides we saw a lot of short planks of stacked wood being air/sun dried on roofs and ground. These are Willow planks for making Cricket Bats, which is one of the important small scale industry of the area. There are many shops selling a wide variety of Cricket bats, all along the small towns of the Highway. The driver and guide from Srinagar took us off the main road, to show us the rural life, the apple and walnut farms. All the hillsides have walnut trees, the lower areas are apple gardens. Rice is cultivated with the stream waters, in the lower valleys. Wall nut season was just over and it was the peak apple picking season. We saw many tree forks stacked with branches with dry leaves of trees. We were told, it is the fodder stored for the sheep and goats, in winte,r when grazing is not possible. We stopped at the farm of the driver’s sister and had fresh free apples of different varieties, which were very tasty. We stopped at another farm to buy apples which we could pick from the trees. The heaps of fallen apples (undamaged) are sold at Rs.30/- and fresh ones from tree at Rs.50/- per Kg. They also gave us some free fresh apples, to eat in the car.
Next morning we had a Shikara ride through the Dal Lake, as part of the package deal. Shikaras are small single paddle, small low boats, which take tourist on ride through the lake and also ferry House Boat residents. Many Shikaras also are floating markets, selling local wares, taking photographs in fancy local dress on payment etc for the tourists taking Shikara rides. We had to leave for the airport early, as there is security check from outside the airport. There are 5 security checks, before you reach the aircraft and it can take 2 hours or more.
Everything seemed normal except, for a lot of armed personnel all over. There was no problem for moving around in Srinagar or any other locations, like Gulmarg or Pahalgam. The population is 95% Muslims. Contrary to our expectations they are friendly and did not seem to be very orthodox. Most of them are non vegitarians and sheep meat is common. We were also served some fine vegetarian food. They eat for breakfast, crisp tandoor bread made of Maida. This is not made at home, but bought from venders or small shops each morning. The men are very handsome and ladies very beautiful and fair. The villagers both men and women use very loose gowns and women use colored scarf’s to cover their heads. The young women, college and school girls, mostly wear white head scarfs, covering their ears,but wear white or light colored dresses, with full sleeves. The younger generation of women looks very pretty, in their light colored dress. We saw very few women wearing Purda in Srinagar or places we visited. We were pleasantly surprised with the informality and friendly people of Srinagar and places we visited in Kashmir. We returned by a connecting flight from Delhi and reached Kochi by 9/30 pm. We stayed overnight at Shathigiri Asramam near Alwaye. We picked up our car and reached home by noon next day.
K.George John
Edited 07/10/2018
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